For the next three days, we are going to explore magnificent Scottish highland castles and lochs. We will visit the important lochs and castles we have always heard about in history, song and literature.
Stirling Castle
We sailed overnight from the Orkney Islands down the eastern coast of Scotland to the port of Dundee. Our excursion today is to travel through the Forth Valley to visit one of Scotland’s most famous castles.
From there we will ride through the Trossachs, gateway to the Scottish Highlands, and stop at Loch Katrine. We will take a ride on a steam boat and return to Dundee.
As I noted, our tour of Scottish highland castles and lochs begins with the most famous. We arrived at our first destination in a misty rain. Though shrouded in morning fog, Stirling Castle is a magnificent mid-16th century castle. And, historically speaking, this castle has to be one of Scotland’s most important landmarks. Rising from its commanding perch on an imposing rocky promontory over the River Forth, it commands first place in the history of Scotland. After all, this is the home of Mary, Queen of Scots, who as a nine-month old baby received her crown there and lived in the castle five years before fleeing to France. Later she returned as an adult to command her place in Scottish history.
Stirling Castle
Our time was altogether too short to give the castle its due, but we saw as much as we could. The Great Hall shown below (the entrance and inside) is one of the largest banquet halls in Scotland and is still in use today. The ceiling is a stunning architecture using an inverted boat hull design.
As we walked through the castle, we came upon the Stirling Heads which are among the country’s greatest art treasures. They are carved 16th century oak medallions of carved images of kings mounted in the ceiling. Many restored medallions and reproductions complete the showing.
Walking through the chambers of the king and the queen is a step back into history with restored paintings, wall hangings, and costumed guides.
We wandered at a rather fast pace through the Great hall, the chapel, and the chambers of the king and the queen. We had some time to tour the grounds. This is clearly a must-see stop in Scotland.
Trossachs, Gateway to the Scottish Highlands
Leaving Stirling Castle, we were bound for the Trossachs National Park. This is a large park, almost as large as our Smoky Mountains National Park, that claims twenty-one mountain peaks over 3,000 feet (compare to our Lookout Mountain in Chattanooga at 2,400 feet). Many lochs are within its boundary, the most famous being Loch Lomond. The geography of the park straddles the Highland Fault which separates the Scottish highlands and lowlands. A beautiful place and restful to the soul.
Scottish Lochs
While riding through the Trossachs, at the epicenter of the most famous Scottish highland castles and lochs, a soulful Scottish ballad that we have all heard came to mind, “The Bonnie Banks O’ Loch Lomond” (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feLT7Btuqpc). This ballad tells the story of two imprisoned solders under the command of Bonnie Prince Charlie who was in retreat from England to Scotland. One soldier, the balladeer, faced death by decapitation. The second solder would receive his freedom and return to Scotland. The low road symbolizes death. The high road symbolizes life. Scotland is, of course, heaven. I dare you to listen without a tear!
Edinburgh
Monday morning finds us in the port of New Haven, a suburb of Edinburgh. And what better welcome than a morning greeting of Scottish bagpipes?
This is a day of great adventure. Most importantly, we are setting out to find the ancestral home of John Hoge, formerly Haig, the Baron of Bemersyde. Born in Musselburgh on the outskirts of Edinburgh and later the owner of Bemersyde Estates where he died in 1682, he is a ninth great-grandfather of Joe’s family. He lived from 1580 to 1682.
Bemersyde
Two kind ladies, hospitality volunteers, greeted our ship on our arrival in the port of New Haven, and assisted us in securing a cab for the day. We were soon off with Douglas to find Bemersyde, approximately 45 miles to the south and east of Melrose, near Scotland’s border with England. While en route, we received a call from the property manager welcoming us to visit the estate. And just in the nick of time!
Scotland’s register of historic homes lists Bemersyde as a private estate. Though not one of the Scottish highland castles, it still has a place in Scottish history. Unfortunately, the family no longer owns the estate. Construction of the house began with a guard house in 1535 AD. Subsequently, the owners constructed the right wing, but the exact date of construction is unknown. The left wing was an addition in the 19th century. Today weekend retreats and private functions take place today at Bemersyde. The poet, Thomas the Rhymer, in the 1300s penned, “Tyde, tyde, whate’er betide. There’s aye be the Haigs of Bemersyde.” Look at the headstone over the doorway!
While I was taking everything in, Susie was looking for a restroom and literally stumbled into the flat of Mr. James Taverner, a 20-year resident of Bemersyde. An interesting fellow. There is a photograph of the Queen on his wall. And when questioned, he said that he had met the Queen and Prince Philip. He did some work for the Crown in Africa in the past which appeared to put him crossways with some bad guys. James is now living under his mother’s maiden name at Bemersyde, apparently to avoid detection and unfortunate repercussions. He is a friendly person and shared with us quite a lot about Bemersyde.
This Spanish Chestnut tree is hundreds of years old. It still stands in the front lawn of Bemersyde, is in great health and is still bearing fruit. If you look closely in the upper reaches of the tree, you will see iron bands around the sturdy limbs. James recounts that the purpose of these bands was to hang unwelcome visitors in years past. (Glad we received permission to visit!)
Melrose Countryside
We could have explored a long while, but we returned with Douglas to the highway and the nearby town of Melrose. The countryside was resplendent under the late September sun. From the highway, you will see the Leaderburg Viaduct, a railway bridge over the River Tweed.
The ruins of the Melrose Abbey, dating to 1136 AD are impressive in their size and in their ornate architectural detail. The abbey suffered through the many conflicts of the Scots and the English, especially during the Protestant Reformation. Consequently, the building is no longer used. Legend has it that the Abbey holds the heart of Robert the Bruce buried in a crypt.
Upon leaving Bemersyde, I stopped to photograph this panorama overlooking the valley of the River Tweed toward the Scottish Highlands. Interestingly, there was an unmarked park bench next to where I stood. Later, on my return home, I learned that this was Sir Walter Scott’s favorite view of the Scottish Highlands.
After our exploration of Bemersyde and Melrose, Douglas drove us back to Edinburgh. Thankfully, we still had just enough time to visit the fabled castle. Douglas took a slight detour to show us Edinburgh’s oldest pub and then stopped at the castle. And would you believe that he got out of the cab, walked up the hill to speak to the guards and then returned to the cab to drive us through the security barriers to the front gate? What a nice thing to do! Susie’s soon to be replaced left knee was so grateful.
Edinburgh Castle
Our tour of the Scottish highland castles and lochs continues with the magnificent Edinburgh Castle. As always there is so much to see, and time is so short.
The small garden space holds a soldiers’ dog cemetery dating back to 1837. The year marks the ascent of Queen Victoria to the British throne where she remained until 1901. Several cultural traits marked her reign, among which was an appreciation of pets and companion animals. Burial plots in castles were often considered exclusive to military personnel and nobles, and that is the case here in Edinburgh Castle.
The stained glass window is from Margaret’s chapel, Edinburgh’s oldest building, constructed by King David I in honor of his mother. Robert the Bruce spared the chapel when he destroyed the castle in 1314 after the English recaptured the castle. Margaret, a Saxon princess, fled to Scotland soon after the Norman Conquest in 1066. She subsequently married King Máel Coluim. In William Shakespeare’s Macbeth, he is Michael Canmore. Known for her piety and learning, Pope Innocent IV made her Scotland’s only royal saint.
We enjoyed roaming the grounds of the Edinburgh Castle. This is still an operational government complex, parts of which are still in active use. Leaving the castle and pushed for time to return to the ship, we walked a small piece of the Royal Mile. To explain, this is a mile-long route through old town Edinburg running from the castle to the Hollywood Palace that features many old buildings of historical and cultural significance.
Cutting it a little close, we made the tender’s last run back to the ship. This was one terrific day!
Invergordon/Inverness
We docked late morning the next day at Invergordon. There is not much to see there, but the harbor is deep enough to allow ocean going vessels. We planned to take an excursion to the Castle on Loch Ness this afternoon. So, for the morning, we thought we would stretch our legs on a stroll through Invergordon.
Passing by the by now omnipresent kilted bagpiper, we walked the main street of Invergordon. We checked out the small local museum, predictably modest but interesting. Invergordon prides itself on the murals painted on its buildings in town. Many of them sport large, colorful paintings of just about anything you can imagine.
The most remarkable sight though was an old stone house on the main street with a large mural on one end and a slate roof supporting solar panels. We saw quite a few old buildings with their roofs covered with solar panels.
Castle Urquhart
Our tour of the Scottish highland castles and lochs continues as we drove from Invergordon through Inverness to the west side of Loch Ness to the Castle Urquhart. Constructed in the 1220s, the presence of the castle extended royal authority into the rugged Scottish Highlands. The English army of King Edward I seized the castle in 1296, but not for long. Scotland’s King Robert the Bruce recaptured the castle in 1308.
The castle figured prominently in subsequent wars between the Scottish and English armies, often changing hands. Its last owners destroyed much of the castle as they left under duress. Various owners made additions and modifications to the castle over the centuries. In fact, construction of the large tower occurred in the 1500s.
Legends surrounding the Loch Ness monster abound. Many of them have the monster’s home in the waters surrounding the castle. We looked but failed to find Nessie. I did consider photo-shopping Nessie into the picture above!
In the photograph below is a model of a trebuchet. Armies employed a device such as this model to heave large projectiles to destroy mighty castles like Urquhart. The trebuchet has a long arm with a basket to heave a large stone through a 270 degree arc using a large counterweight to power the motion. No documentation exists to show a trebuchet in use against Urquhart though seven large stones lying near the castle may be have been projectiles. On departing Urquhart, we returned to the ship. I wish we had a little time for Inverness, but this was not possible.
Showtime!
Our Seabourn entertainers put on a great show this evening. And, we were so thrilled to see that a new dancer joined the show. An instant hit!
Our time on the east coast of Scotland has drawn to a close. Our tour of the Scottish highland castles and lochs has been a huge success. We have been in sensory overload with what we have seen and heard. Tomorrow is a sea day when we return to the western side of Scotland. We are looking forward to Oban and Glasow!
