A Month of Milestones
September is a milestone month for us. Obviously, the month marks the end of summer which, for lake people like we are, means our days on the water are numbered, and our guests have gone home. Furthermore, September is the birthday month for our sons, Mark and Greg. But most of all, September 11 is not only 9-11 Memorial Day, it is our anniversary. Notably, this year we mark 49 years together. Since we were not content to look ahead to 50, we resolved to make the date memorable with a romantic weekend getaway. Notwithstanding, with all the restrictions of the Covid-19 pandemic, we decided to stay close to home and return to the Smoky Mountains, a special place for our romance that began to flourish a half century ago.
So, Friday morning, we left home with Jeb and Sophie and dropped them off at Happy Hounds Boarding Kennel for the weekend. We continued north from our Soddy Daisy home to the Smoky Mountains. Fortunately, with time to spare we took the longer route through Maryville and entered the park through Townsend. The little town prides itself for being the “quiet side” of the Smokies, and it really is. It is sort of the “anti-Gatlinburg.”
As we worked our way along the Little Greenbrier River toward Gatlinburg we stopped at the Metcalf Bottoms Picnic Area for lunch. Indeed, who wouldn’t want to eat a picnic lunch in a quiet place along a lovely stream. Since we a made a stop at Ingle’s for ready made sandwiches, fruit, and drinks, we had great strategy to stay out of restaurants.
A Romantic Weekend Getaway
Shortly afterward, we passed through Gatlinburg, a tourist mecca normally packed with humanity, but today things were fairly low density. With an obligatory stop at the Ol’ Smoky Mountain Candy Kitchen for our favorite caramel coated apples, we continued on, leaving Gatlinburg, and passed through the Glades Road Arts and Crafts District to reach the Mountain View Inn (http://www.hippensteal.net). Set in a commanding view on a mountain top, its proprietors, Vern and Lisa Hippensteal, created a romantic oasis of peace and solitude that demands that you slow down, stop, and remember why you still love each other .
With no less than three trips to our second floor suite, the car trunk was empty. Above all, Susie really hates to travel with a partially-filled trunk! Afterwards, I took a look around our suite, “Spring’s Awakening,” and I concluded that we had chosen well. Beautifully decorated with antiques, heated with a gas fireplace (which we would not need), and opening onto a large balcony. In fact this was not just a large balcony. Standing there on this large balcony appointed with Adirondack chairs and swinging love seats, we embraced a marvelous view of Mount LeConte and the Smoky Mountains.
Without a doubt, this is the perfect spot to hole up with a couple of good books and disappear for a weekend.
A Romantic Weekend Getaway Feast
As tempting as it was to stay, we decided to look for dinner. After Vern offered his recommendations, we selected Crystelle Creek Restaurant and Grill. We were looking for outside dining, and this seemed to be the best opportunity. Thus we made our way down the mountain to the restaurant.
Crystell Spring had an unusual architectural design, a rustic, elongated tunnel-like construction. This was going to be an interesting experience. We asked about outdoor seating, and the maitre d’ offered that outdoors was too humid and “buggy” to comfortable, so he offered seating in a screened in bar area.
So we relaxed while our friendly waitress took our orders and put our dinner into motion. Dinner was a delicious trout piccata preparation with sweet potatoes and zucchini followed with a chocolate wild berry cake. Consequently, we had to rate this as a terrific anniversary dinner. An excellent choice all around.
We returned to the Mountain View, with an eye on an ominous gray cloud cover but hoping for a magnificent sunset. However, a splendid sunset of sun, clouds and lighting was not to be. A monochrome expanse of blue closed out our day. Still, not so bad.
Saturday in the Smokies
We arose anticipating a day to go where the mood would lead us on a beautiful Saturday morning in the Smokies. But first, breakfast. Lisa’s Eggs Hippensteal.
In an earlier post from our cruise among the British Isles, we thrilled to a spectacular Seabourn brunch while cruising a day at sea. The ship opened its galley to amaze the passengers with an awesome brunch (https://lifesojourn.com/seafaring-with-seabourn-through-western-scotland/). While Lisa’s fare was much simpler, its presentation, the atmosphere, and the taste were equally marvelous.
Dollywood
Following this amazing breakfast, we made our way down the mountain and into Pigeon Forge to Dollywood. Yes, Dollywood (https://www.dollywood.com). This is a full-service amusement park. Terrific thrill rides are everywhere in the park. Entertainment venues, both indoor and outdoor, host a variety of song and musicians. No doubt food and souvenir vendors are densely populated everywhere. A wild bird center with dozens of bald eagles and other raptors is in the midst of it all. Shows featuring raptors run all day long.
We thought it would be fun to walk around and catch the shows. The park seemed strange. Covid-19 is the rule of the day. Everything is operating at 25% capacity. Everyone is wearing a mask. Cleaning crews are omnipresent.
A little country A little rock ‘n roll
You would know that Dolly would have musical entertainment in her park, a little of everything everywhere. This is really why we enjoy this park so much.
We leave the thrill rides to the teenagers. There are countless ways to find yourself spinning into space at high speed upside down! These rides are in a league of their own.
Saturday Evening
We left the park and returned to Gatlinburg thinking it was time to find dinner. There weren’t too many choices with outdoor dining, so our selection was limited. We did settle on the Red Oak Bistro on the Arts & Crafts Trail (https://redoakbistro.net). What a find! We picked the only place in town with reservations only, but I suppose we looked pitiful. The maitre d’ seated us outside on the deck. Being touristy Gatlinburg, we keep our dining expectations in check, but this place really surprised.
A great dining experience like the Red Oak makes a weekend get away so special. The menu featured shared small plates of authentic and innovative fare inspired by Mediterranean and Eastern European cuisines. We started with a Greek Moussaka and a flatbread pita covered with bison sausage, peppers, and cheese. It was enough for the two of us. The wines were much better than you’ll find in our house.
We decided we had little energy left and return to the Mountain Villa. As we walked in, we passed a sign saying that there was banana pudding in the refrigerator. Well, why not?
Sunday Morning
We arose early to take a hike before breakfast. Hiking is such a popular activity, and trails, especially their parking lots, fill very early. We selected Laurel Falls since that was our first hike together back in our college days. It seemed like the perfect activity on our romantic weekend getaway. We were the first on the trail with a flashlight at 6:45 AM. The hike was short, in to the falls for 1.3 miles and return.
As we returned from the falls, the number of people tracing our steps to the falls grew and grew. When we reached the car, the parking lot had overflowed. So glad we made an early start. But we are hungry now. Hungry enough for a classic Hippensteal breakfast!
On our return, we went straight to the dining room. Breakfast was terrific as we expected it would be. After we relaxed and chatted with fellow visitors, we prepared to pack and leave.
Weekend Getaway Coming to Close
The day was so beautiful that we decided to take the long way home to take full advantage of our getaway. We decided return through Cades Cove and Townsend. Cades Cove is a favorite spot for many visitors to the Smoky Mountains(https://www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/cadescove.htm). It is an eleven mile loop through a high mountain valley that seems to be in its own peaceful world. The vestiges of 19th century Appalachia remain in the form of cemeteries and restored log structures. The cove is a great place for animal watching (though today was not the day).
So, after a romantic weekend getaway of retracing steps first taken some fifty years ago, we headed home. Despite all the agony brought on by the Covid-19 epidemic, some golden nuggets have emerged. We have had a time to reconnect with each other in all the time we have spent alone. We have had the chance to renew ourselves in nearby places. There is no need to travel around the world to find places of beauty. Amazing natural beauty is here, all around us.